La Clusaz

It's been some time since writing on the blog but I've decided to update now periodically after taking trips to capture memories and to stay in touch! Hopefully a consistent pattern now after leaving PwC and having a better ability to vacation during "busy season," I planned a European ski trip with the Kilimanjaro crew (and to celebrate Li’s birthday!). Having been a few years since leaving Geneva, only one of the individuals from that trip still remains a resident of Geneva with the rest of us now living around the world (US, Canada, and Nepal) so this did require some coordination.

Friday

Kay and I each worked a half day before heading to O’Hare. Having access to public transportation to the airport is a nice perk of Chicago; however, lugging a large ski bag door-to-door is very difficult. Kay drove me and then walked back to the station and we almost missed our flight due to the infrequent train schedule as a result of staffing issues following COVID. The actual flight itself went well and no delays once at the airport.

Saturday

After connecting in Stockholm, we arrived in Geneva near lunch and had some time to kill before we could check in. It was nice to have this spare time as we walked around town where Kay used to live and visited a few Geneva favorites (Tartar&Co and Brezelkoenig). 

Lac Leman

After 2 hours, we started the drive to La Clusaz and were the first of the group to arrive after making a grocery stop in Annecy. The drive itself was not notable as there was very little snow as Europe recently had one of its warmest Decembers in record. Being first to arrive we did need to retrieve the keys and discovered that we were given the wrong key lock box code, which led to a 15-minute delay but then we were able to access the chalet, relax, wait for the others, and then get to sleep early.

The chalet....and the lack of snow!

Sunday

We went skiing in La Clusaz this day with low expectations with the lack of snow cover. At the top of the gondola, mountain mid-station, we walked to the piste across mud to then put on our gear to ski a short distance to the base of the chair lift to the top.

Day 1 conditions....

The snow started midday and this made visibility very low and while the coverage was very poor, we used this day to loosen up rather than to get a full day of skiing.

First Lift

Unfortunately on the 2nd run of the day, Kay fell back on to her hand and was in a large amount of pain. We took a break at restaurant on the hill and then rode the chairlift down the mountain to the base. Having broken my scaphoid, not seeing a doctor, and discovering 4 years later that my broken was broke, we determined that we should get an X-ray as this was a common break that to under-estimate. 

While trying to get to the clinic and now having snowed for a few hours, our gps routed us around the mountain and our car had very bad traction so we had to turn around and go down the mountain to instead get to the clinic (This was after slipping all over and a failed attempt to put snow chains on the car)!

Once parking, we spent about 30 min. at a local bar drinking a coffee waiting for the clinic to open (as we’re in France and everything closes from 12-2). A short line built up during the closing time but Kay quickly met with a Doctor who identified that there was a break, prior to taking the x-ray that then confirmed the break, and put her in an above elbow cast. This ended Kay’s snowboarding for the trip (and a few other planned winter trips) but we did what we could to enjoy France.

Assessing X-rays for damage with the medical team

For dinner on Sunday, we made a fondue and raclette dinner with full group at the chalet (10 people) and made s’mores (swapping graham crackers for biscoff is an amazing upgrade I recommend trying as well as using Swiss chocolate rather than Hersey's).

Fondue!

Raclette smorgasbord

Smores over the fire

Monday

The snow has continued non-stop from the previous day so we used the extra time at the chalet to put snow chains on all of the cars after the previous day's debacle. We determined that the instructions for the snow chains for our vehicle were terrible and started connecting everything logically and this was successful.

We went cross country skiing this day and Kay went on a hike with another member of the group. I borrowed Cal’s skate gear, which was fun change as I typically only ski classic. The conditions were great with the new snow until heading into the snow and wind that was blinding!

Cross Country Skiing

After skiing, we went back to the chalet to do some sledding and spend time in the hot tub.

Posing with the neighbor's 'Snowman'

Tuesday

The snow continues and we went skiing at Grand Bornand this day while Kay snowshoed a trail in the village. Midway through the day, I skied off of the cat track and landed the snow bank a few feet below given the poor visibility. This was likely one of my worst falls in a decade as I went over my skis, got caked with snow, had to spend time locating my skis that were buried a few feet beneath the slow, but was otherwise fine other than being very cold and taking a break at the end of the run at the base restaurant.

Top of Grand Bornand

Wednesday

The snow has finally started to stop this day after receiving about 60cm (2.5’) over the course of 3 days. The entire group went skinning up La Clusaz this day from the base of the gondola to the top of mountain for lunch and a vin chaud! This was most of the groups 1st time skimming but the route was a safer, well-travelled path that the group enjoyed and Kay was able to snowshoe with the group and ride the gondola down from the top.

Morning after snow has finally stopped!

After spending the day at the mountain, we went back to the chalet to change and prepare for dinner. When heading to the store to re-stock for dinner, I started the car but did not lot the windshield fully defrost before driving….

I drove the car between the two driveway legs and got stuck on the steep slope! Apparently, it is still possible to get stuck in snow with snow chains🙄. Luckily, the bulldozer (the operator was also a ski patrol member) that plowed the driveways and streets on the mountain was driving by and we were able to flag him down in order to help tow the car from the snow. The bulldozer was able to quickly pull the car on to the driveway so that we could go to the grocery store to get ingredient to make pizza for dinner that night.

Thursday

The larger group went skiing today but Kay and I went snowshoeing/skinning at La Clusaz on a slightly different route but with the same destination as the prior day. It was very sunny and a great day to be outside; however, we were following a couple that was hiking that destroyed the ski path with very large holes (1-2’ deep) when walking. This made the ‘easy’ ski/hike much more difficult…

Friday

I went skiing with Li and Jill this day while Kay and the snowboarders went sightseeing and shopping and Chamonix. It was sunny and cold but great to be out on the slopes and grab a vin chaud on the mountain with a crepe at the end of the day!

With our last night in the mountains, we made a large dinner of leftovers and played down Europe Ticket to Ride (I won!).

Saturday

It was sad leaving the chalet and all of our friends departing in different directions! The drive was uneventful other than a minor traffic jam of stuck cars that were coming into the mountain and getting stuck coming up the small roads near the chalet (thank you snow chains!)

Entire crew other than Cal, Vicki, Daire, and Lily

We walked around Geneva and I ran 8 miles on a route that I used to do frequent by the water, to Vesenaz and back through Cologny.

Before dinner, Kay and I went to happy hour at L’atelier (old favorite for happy hour and now called 21 club) and then we met up with a group of PwC friends at Da Paolo for pizza, wine, limoncello and a 2nd digestif at Little Barrel.

PwC Crew for Dinner

Sunday

The morning was a little slow but we made it to the airport with ample spare time to return the car and our first flight to Copenhagen.

In Copenhagen, we had a 3-hour layover that ended up being longer than planned…but at least the airport was very nice!

As our original flight time neared, all flights were halted to Chicago due to a minor amount of snow and then as we were supposed to board, the flight was cancelled. Upon talking to the airline, we understood that the flight was cancelled as a food cart had collided the plane and we were rescheduled the following day (coincidentally Kay had a flight cancelled in the same airport and for the same reason in 2019). At least this all happened in Europe where it’s required to take care passengers in the event of a cancellation so we had a free night in the city and I was able to recheck all of my bags before we left the airport for the day so that I did not need to carry skis all over.

We spent the night downtown in Copenhagen at the Marriott and had a delicious Danish dinner!

Monday

Flights on Monday went well with most of the passengers on our flights (CPH to ARN, ARN to ORD) also trying to get to Chicago after being stranded. Even with a slight delay on the first flight, the second flight waited for all of us with a tight connection.

Despite the broken bones and flight issues, it was a very fun trip and great to spend time with close friends! It's always great to get back to Europe and Geneva to spend time with friends from when I lived there and looking forward to the next time I'm back again.

Final Days in Switzerland

After arriving in Switzerland on Sunday afternoon, I started to do preparations for moving back.

Before describing the crazy days ahead, I want to highlight that at this point that I had already obtained my notice to leave the country from the canton office (this involved a first failed attempt after waiting for 2 hours and having to leave line for a work meeting followed by a successful 2nd attempt after waiting for 1:40 when arriving at 7:30AM the following day).  As all of my household goods have now been shipped, I moved my suitcases to a neighboring Senior Manager’s apt. (Bob) as I would be staying there the next two nights before flying home.  I also went to my apt. and removed any last items as the following day there is a large cleaning planned at my apartment prior to the exit inspection on Tuesday.  

Monday's Initial Plan

• 8AM - Gives keys to cleaner and go to PwC to meet with colleagues and turn on computer.
• 11:30AM - Leave for lunch with client.
• 4PM - Be at apartment to meet DHL to ship some luggage home then relax and dinner with friends.

The actual day...
I arrived at my apartment to wait for the cleaner and after waiting 30 min. (Swiss are never late!), I call and learn that the scheduled cleaner called in sick so they would need to find a ‘solution’ during the day and will keep me updated.

I then go to CAT to meet a colleague and learn that the cleaners will now come at 3PM so I plan to go to a client lunch and then drop my PC at the office to be back to meet the cleaner.

Following the client lunch and near 1:30, I receive a call while on the bus to the office that the cleaners are at my apt. and need access so I then abandon course to meet the cleaner.  After meeting the cleaner, I then get to the office near 2:30 and do not get home until about 4:15.

I wait until about 5:15 and after seeing a DHL truck near my apartment that then leaves, I call DHL to ask when they will be here to pick up my bag as the picked was arranged for 4 to 6.  I’m then told that the driver was at my apartment at 3:55 and will be back within an hour to pick up the bag...The bag is picked up at 6 so I’m able to relax before meeting friends for dinner at 7:30PM.  

Dinner was as planned, at a small Italian place and it was fun to catch up with my ski friends and the Kilimanjaro crew one last time!

Last Day

After a relatively sleepless night in anticipation, I awake at 7:15 to get ready to depart from GVA one last time.  I learn quickly that my phone service has already been terminated, which is OK; however, I was expecting to have service extend through the day rather than end at 4AM of the last day of the contract.  This adds to the already complex trip home as I needed to meet a coworker at my place to provide all my keys as he would be meeting my landlord on my behalf later that day.  The key exchange went well and I then use his phone as hotspot so that I could order an Uber.

I arrive at the airport and learn that my flight is in the French sector, which is a slightly further walk and normally not a major problem.  On this particular trip, I’m toting my carry-on backpack, my 45L camping backpack and 3 suitcases each holding a case of wine so this is not an easy process, but I find a cart and manage.

Upon reach the France sector, everything goes well:

1) At check-in, all baggage fees are waived after I had expected to pay for 3 bags.

2) At security, the agent helps remove the gas from a souvenir gift lighter so that I can fly with it.

3) I’m able to meet up with a friend also flying out that day.

Flights during the way go well until reaching Detroit when none of my bags make it; however, this resulted in avoiding the awkward conversation at customs that I have 3 cases of wine packed.  This is both a blessing (time saver) and a disappointment as I had been prepared for this matter by contacting the MI Dept. of alcohol to understand the customs/import process and paid the taxes in advance to avoid this being an issue at the border.

First stop upon reaching the US was getting dinner at the Coney in the Detroit airport; this was a recurring visit of mine every time when arriving in the US (along with Chipotle).

I'm happy to be back in the US, but will definitely missing friends and certain aspects of life overseas.  Having already planned a trip back to Geneva when running the Berlin marathon in September has definitely helped as part of the transition process back to the US and leaving Switzerland.  It’s surreal reflecting back at the people I’ve met, the traveling memories, and experiences had while living abroad.  My time in Switzerland has been an amazing experience and even with its challenges at times, I’m quite happy having had this opportunity.  

Champagne - Wkd. of July 28

Barcelona to Champagne
After leaving Barcelona, my 7AM flight arrived in Paris at 9:20AM as I had made plans to spend the weekend in Champagne with a large group of friends for Geneva.

While in Paris, I found a gym and stowed my bag in a locker to then ran 19 miles for marathon training before showing and boarding a train to Epernay.  The run was very hot and on top of this, I then had to walk about a mile from the gym to the train station in order to make my connection in time!  I was quite happy to get a chance to sit and rest.

The train to Épernay was very quick (1:20) and I arrived at 4pm and took a 15 min. taxi to Fontaine-sur-Ay where our group had rented a  huge farm house.  The house we rented could sleep about 25-30 people and we had about 17 so the place was great for our larger group as it accommodated everyone and also had several grills, foosball, and a ping pong table.  All of our meals the remaining weekend were dinners grill outs with everyone lending a land on the preparation and cooking.

Grilling at the homestead.

Foosball at the farm house.

The following day, we had an organized Champagne tasting where a full-size charter bus picked up us and drove us through a small winery in the morning near a castle in Boursault, we then had a small lunch in Hautvillars, followed by a tasting in Épernay before heading to the farm house for dinner.

Full group at Boursault

The weekend was an amazing time to catch with friends one last time before heading back to Geneva for my final 2 nights before leaving for the US.  

Spain and Portugal - Wks of July 16 and 23

The week of July 9th was my last working week in Switzerland that culminated with a work golf outing; therefore, it was a relatively easy last week.  The most stressful part was getting home from golf at 5pm, showering in 30 minutes, and then getting to a bar to host a going away party by 6.  

It was a long night out that was then followed by the movers arriving at my apt. to pack all of my household goods to be shipped across the ocean at 8AM.  I had been preparing all week by packing one suitcase for 2 weeks of travel, another suitcase of clothing for the US before my shipping container arrives (up to 2 months), and wine that I would be flying home with as it could not be included in my shipping container.  I was ready for the move, but it was an early wakeup call that left me with no bed to sleep or couch to sit on starting from then.

Once the movers finished packing and moving (3pm), I went to the airport for one of my last trips while living in Europe to Spain/Portugal with the Bellgraphs.  I boarded a flight at 6:40pm and Kyle and Sam arrived the next morning on a red eye flight.

Madrid

After Kyle and Sam safely arrived, I toured the city on foot during a run and we did a walking tour with some light tapas tasting and Sangria tasting; therefore, we kept a lighter day to deal with the jet lag.

Takos Al Pastor

For our 2nd day, we went on a tour of the Real Madrid stadium (San Bernabeu) and then did our own tapas tour throughout the city.  For the uninitiated, tapas in Madrid and Southern Spain are served free with drinks.  Although not supposed to be a meal, we made dinner of the many tapas bars that ended and ended the evening with seeing a flamenco show. 

Jamon

The following day, we rented a car to visit Segovia to see the aqueduct, cathedral, and Alcazar.  Coincidentally, Disneyland California opened 68 years ago on the same day; the castle at the park was modeled after the castle that we were planning to visit that same day.

Alcazar

Following the castle tour, we experienced with the local cuisine before driving to Rioja:

Yes this is a pig leg....when in Rome...

The 4th day of our trip began in Logrono where we travelled to LaGuardia and Haro for some Rioja tastings.  The area was reminiscent of other wine areas that I have visited since living in Europe with the only difference being the mountains and increased elevation.

View from LaGuardia

Within an original limestone vat for smashing grapes at Casa Primicia

We reached San Sebastien in the late afternoon in time for a quick swim in the ocean and happy hour before a visit to my favorite Sidreria.

Pinxtos

Our stay in the city was fast as I had time for a run the following morning followed by a walking tour and a few last Pinxtos bars before boarding a night train to Porto.  The night train experience was similar to Russia although we did have to exchange trains at 4:45AM in the middle of nowhere....

Harbour at San Sebastien

The late night train station (Pampilhosa)

Porto was a quick trip, but we tried to see some highlights with a walking tour when arriving and when sampling the local cuisine.  The 2nd day we did a Douro Wine, Port, and Boat Tour of inland Portugal.  The wine region of Portugal reminded me of Lavaux in Switzerland.

Porto

Portugal Crew

Douro Valley 

Following the boat tour, we took a late night train into Lisbon.  I’ve been to Lisbon before; however, had forgotten the hills so there was going to be no marathon training occurring while in the city.  We did a walking tour, tried Ginjinha, and went to a Fado show on our first day; the Fado was very different compared to the Flamenco of Madrid.  The former being more sad singing whereas Flamenco was full of energy with the singers also dancing and stomping/tapping to create the music.

Ginjinha

The last day in Lisbon, we did a Sintra Tour; I had done this with Alex on a previous trip.  We then tried another local Portuguese food, the Bifano.  Bifanos are basically pork chop sandwiches that are simple, but great; the meal was nice after going out and getting very large dinners for multiple days in a row.

Sintra

Bifano

The following morning, we went to the airport to fly to Barcelona to our last city of the trip.  We stayed in an apt. near the Arc du Triomf and spent the first day relaxing and preparing for the remainder of the trip (getting driver’s licenses translated into Spanish for the follow days Vespa tour) before walking to the Sagrada Familia.  Note for other travelers would be that tickets for guided tours of the church sell out very quickly; the first available tickets were for 2 days later  so it was helpful that we had a few days in Barcelona.

Arc du Triomf 

The following day, we were awoke by a loud protest of taxi drivers that started outside our bedroom windows against Uber.  There were fireworks, people yelling, and it was quite distracting although no risk of danger. During the day, we all went running, I jumped in the ocean, and then we began the Vespa tour.  This was my first Vespa tour and it was a great way to see a larger city.  We drove by the beach, Sagrada Familia, 1992 Olympic Stadiums, top of Mt. Tibidabo, and Casa Batillo.  The protest moved throughout the city so this did cause us to need to change routes slightly, but we were able to see all the planned sights.

Biker Gang

1992 Olympic Stadium

On our final day, we had planned to see Parc Guell; however, there were no taxis or Ubers due to the protests so we rented bikes to ride the 2.5 miles from our apartment.  So....Barcelona is hilly and very hot during July!  We did reach the Parc and walked around, but did not stay long as we were eager to cool off outside of the sun and relax before going to Sagrada Familia.

Taking the city by bike

I’ve been to the Sagrada Familia on a previous trip to Europe while working in Slovakia before living here, but never been inside.  The inside of the church was gorgeous with very colorful stained glass and we were lucky enough to arrive when the sun was setting so it was well lit.  

The following morning we had flights home at 7am so we awoke at 4 to get an airport transfer at 4:30 AM so we were quite tired.  Not having taxis or Uber’s created some additional complexities as well as we had to find an independent transfer company that we knew we could count on working given the strike.

We covered many locations during the 2 weeks and tried many types of different food throughout the regions.  Even travelling within the Iberian peninsula, there was quite an array of diversity and we could have easily stayed much longer to see more locations; although, I'm not sure my body could handle trying to train for marathons while living in this climate!

Amalfi - Wk. of July 2

After landing from Russia at 8pm, I had time to quickly add some additional clothing to my bag, go to work for a few hours the following morning, and then board a flight at 4pm to Rome to start my next trip.  My initial flight was delayed 5 Hours, but I still managed to get a run in in Rome and start my laundry as I had recently sold my washing machine in Switzerland; it was a long, late night!  Fun fact in retrospect while editing this from this US is all flight delays/cancellations within the EU are regulated by laws so there tend to be less delays and you're compensated!

Views of Rome at night while on a midnight run

The following day, Melissa and Terry arrived from Minneapolis and I led the group on a self-guided walking tour of Rome to show them the Pantheon, Castle of the Angel, and the Vatican.  The last time that I was in Rome was in 2010 on my first trip to Europe so I tried my best to cover some of the major sites of the city with the limited time that we had; however, the city is so impressive and it's never possible to cover everything as there is a historic landmark everywhere you look!  The following day, we went on walking tour of historic Rome (Roman Forum and Colosseum); we also had the added unplanned bonus that all museums in the city and the forum were free as it was the final Sunday of the month.  

Are you not impressed!

Following our sightseeing, we rushed to the train station to get to Naples to use as our home base for the next few days while sightseeing the Amalfi coast area.  The city is the birthplace of pizza, has great seafood, and access to some gorgeous locations (Capri and Amalfi); however, I will warn others that arriving at night can be difficult when trying to navigate.  

Naples Piazza del Plebiscito

The following day (Monday), we had planned a day trip to Pompeii and Vesuvius.  The size of Pompeii and the level of preservation from the ash/lava was very impressive; there was much more to the site than I had originally anticipated and after hearing of the volcanic blast within history class.  In addition to the city, we hiked to the top of Vesuvius for views into the caldera and to reach a great vantage point over the Bay of Naples:

Main street of Pompeii

Vesuvius Caldera

Bay of Naples

On Tuesday, we took ferry day trip to the island of Ischia where we hiked to the top of the island to Mt. Epomeo, which was 789m.  This took a few hours and it was quite hot!  To celebrate the days accomplishments, we went to Sorbillo pizza once returning to Naples.  Supposedly, this is the best pizza in the city of Naples so we had to try it while in the birthplace of the food, but this is widely contested.

Top of Mt. Epomeo

Castello Aragonese d'Ischia

Pizza!

On Wednesday, we packed up to ferry to Capri; we had some minor 'excitement' in the morning where the housekeeper came to collect the keys of our apt. 1 hour early and spoke no English so this was a bit of a rude awakening, but humorous in retrospect.  We reached Capri later that morning and the first impressions were the island is a mountain protruding directly from the sea with very little flat terrain.  We took a taxi to the other side of the island to Anacapris where our hotel was located and were dropped off at the bus stop.  This was slightly confusing at first as we were dropped off only to then wait for our hotel driver.....Our hotel then picked us up in a jeep as it was located midway up a very steep hill that taxis are unable to reach; the actual hotel was great while the journey took some time.

Sunset from the hotel

Birthday cake in Capri

After getting settled, we went to the Grotto Azurri and also hiked to Monte Solaro, which was 589m.  Note to other travelers that this can also be accessed relatively easy by chairlift.

Traffic jam to get into the Grotto Azurri

View from Monte Solaro

View from Monte Solaro of the Grotto Verde

The following morning (Thursday), we took the ferry to Positano and bused to Praiano where we were staying for the evening.  We spent the afternoon relaxing on the beach after moving relatively quickly the prior few days.  

Arrival in Positano

On Friday, we hiked the 'Path of the Gods.'  The trail head to start the hike is not the easiest....From the Amalfi coast area (Positano, Praiano, Amalfi, etc.), one must take a bus to the trail head and this is a very windy road into the mountains so it was nice to have a flatter hike after several days already and no one was feeling great after the long, windy trip.  The scenery was quite pretty even when cloudy; it was very nice to have some shade from the sun.

Once completing the hike, we bused to our hotel and took a taxi to Saltano to then take a train to Rome as Melissa and Terry were to fly home the following day while I would go to Florence.  The day was a bit of a whirlwind given the cities of the Amalfi coast are connected by small, mountain roads that are serviced by buses on hourly routes; however, when the buses are full they will not pick up additional riders so give yourself extra time!  I was getting quite nervous when not seeing a bus, having one then drive by, then finally getting home!

Within Florence, I visited the Uffizi and Galleria dell'Accademia as they were closed during my first visit to Rome in 2010:

David

View from Galleria

Although this was a short trip, we covered many sites with lots of hiking and meals of pizza!  I had a lot of fun, but after a string out-of-town trips the prior few weeks, I was ready to go back to Geneva to relax a few days while working.